Cuzco: Pre-Hike Acclimation
During a winter holiday break in my graduate architecture studies, my parents treated my family to a once in a lifetime 3-day,
25-mile hike along a portion of one of the surviving Inca roads to the mountain city of Macchu Picchu.Even though the Peruvian government
strictly regulates tourism along the mountainous hike to both ensure the safety of visitors,
as well as, to provide a much needed source of income for the native Quechua people, a period of acclimation to the high elevations
is vital for successfully completing the trek. Only 12 hours removed from sea level in New Orleans, the simple act of walking a
block down the street was enough to cause lightheadedness and shortness of breath. Most travellers spend a few days in Cuzco beforehand.
The former Inca capital is a somewhat chaotic city of 350,000 which sits over 2 miles above sea level. When the Spanish conquistadors
took control of the former Inca capital, the city was organized in typical Spanish style with a large administration building which
fronts an equally large Plaza Mayor, from which the rest of the city radiated outward. Textile shops and restaurants were fairly
plentiful for tourists, and the day before we began our journey, we visited the Christmas Eve outdoor market, where native Quechua
fill the Plaza Mayor to sell wares of all kinds.
Day 1: The Trek Begins
On the first day of our journey, a bus transported us from Cuzco to Ollantaytambo, an Incan city located at a lower, seemingly
more arid elevation. We did not spend more than a few minutes in the city before meeting our guide, Ernesto, having our passports
stamped by a government official, and heading out. Having become accustomed to the 2 mile altitude of Cuzco, the first day's walk
was not very strenuous, even with the addition of the 40 lb. backpack containing my water and personal belongings. The sight of
the surrounding mountains was both beautiful and unobstructed, and the day was warmer and more pleasant than the last few spent in
Cuzco. After several hours of hiking, we stopped to eat and camp on a fairly flat portion of a mountain, which had a brilliant
view of the sun dipping behind some neighboring peaks. Dinner was featured Peruvian staples like quinoa and a number of potatoes,
and afterward, we met the rest of the assistant guide and the rest of the crew, who were transport and set-up the tents and cooking
gear while we travelled at a more leisurely pace. Soon after, rain began falling rather hard, and with having hiked several miles
that day, it was not a difficult decisions to retreat to our tents.
Day 2: Rain and Dead Woman's Pass
By morning, the ground was still wet, but the clouds had retreated for another breathtaking view, albeit with considerably
different shadows this time. After breakfast, we started our climb towards the highest elevation point of the trip, Dead Woman's
Pass, which rises to almost 14,000 feet feet above sea level. The path rose steadily higher with fewer and fewer breaks between
the impressively hewn stone steps as the climb went on. Initially, it was impossible not to wonder at the impressive mountain
peaks dotted with groups of llamas and alpacas and interspersed with the occasional modern and Incan structure. Within a couple
hours, the climb became more intense, and the rain returned, so pauses became relegated to catching one's breath from the seemingly
enless staircase. However, it only became more wonderous whenever one of our crew would race by us clad in shorts and sandals
lugging packs twice their size with ease. By midday, we reached the windy pass and paused long enough for a picture. Afterward,
we began the descent, stopping briefly for lunch, during which, the slowed to a steady drizzle which continued throughout the day.
By night time, we were cold, wet, and exhausted, so activities were limited to dinner and sleep.
Day 3: Rain Again
When we awoke, the rain had not abated overnight, as it had the previous day. Before lunch, we alternated between ascending
and descending, with Incan ruins becoming both larger and more prevalent along the way. We stopped and explored each outpost, with
Wiñaywayna, the largerst and most impressive perched atop the last great peak before we began the long descent down towards Macchu
Picchu. I was incredibly dismayed at this point because heavy clouds completely obstructed what I was certain was a gorgeous view.
As we climbed down, the rain maintained, but the temperature rose significantly. At camp, there was more than just tents, as a
surprisingly sizeable lodge stocked with somewhat unimpressive Peruvian beer had been constructed for hikers to celebrate their
collective accomplishment. One could only celebrate so much though, as over 20 miles in the Andes and the following day's 4 a.m.
wake-up time limited getting too wild.
Day 4: Macchu Picchu
Initial grogginess from the early wake-up time abated surprisingly quickly as the realization of our goal was in sight. After a
quick breakfast, we said goodbye and thanked our entire crew, save Ernesto, and began the final trek in the dark. After only a couple
brief hours, we reached a closed gate and told to wait for a while. By this time, the rain had stopped, and the sun began to rise,
but the clouds had not cleared for our entrance through the Gate of the Sun, which is reported to be majestic when passed through as
the sun rises over the mountains and city. By this time, I had pretty much given up hope for the sun to make another appearance, when
as we began the final descent with the city in view, the entire sky cleared to reveal what is undoubtedly one of the greatest views
anyhwere on this planet. The city which had at one time provided anonymity and refuge for several hundred people from Spanish conquest,
was carved directly from the steep face of a mountain and provided almost unobstructed vantagepoints for the river valley at its base
and the surrounding mountains for miles around. Although a handful of the stone blocks had begun to shake loose from their original
positions, the vast majority remained so tightly fit together as to prevent something the thickness of a credit card entry between them.
After a few hours of peacefully experiencing the majesty of the city, the hordes of visitors who took the train were admitted, received
our passport exist stamps, and said our goodbyes to Macchu Picchu, undoubtedly the eighth wonder of the world.
